This survival fish trap is a very old method of catching fish. Primitive traps of this type can operate all day and night while you conserve energy and handle other tasks in a survival situation.
The method that I will present to you in this article has proven itself. It's basically a small cone inside a large cone. This is a simple practice, and often when things are simple they tend to work well.
How to build the fish trap:
The first step is to gather the materials needed to make the trap. The main parts of this survival fish trap are branches of two different diameters. A band is about as thick as your index finger or thumb. The other group of branches should have a thinner diameter, smaller than your little finger, and be very flexible.
You will also need some form of rope to tie all the sticks together. The larger sticks will make up the skeleton of the trap (also called a chain). The thinner, more flexible sticks will be woven through the larger sticks to create the structure of the trap (also called wefts).
branches harvested for warps and wefts
I used a lot of different plant species for this trap. The species I use are beaked hazel (Corylus cornuta), acacia maple (Acer circinatum), Indian plum (Oemleria cerasiformis), willow (Salix spp.) and red osier dogwood. (Cornus sericea). 
willow bark cordage
The rope I use is willow bark. I cut a willow branch and slowly removed the bark. 
leafless branches
Once all the pieces are gathered, the first step is to tie the thin ends of the vertical pieces (called chains) to a piece of wood that serves as a cap. It is important to use an odd number. Here I'm using nine. An even number will result in poor weaving. 
Tie the branches at one end with a piece of wood and rope.
Once the verticals (warps) are securely attached to the cap, it's time to start weaving the wefts. The weaving pattern is very simple: under, over, under, over, etc. as we weave around the chains. 
start weaving
The ends of the weaves can be folded and inserted into the previous weaves. When one weave finishes, simply place the next one where the previous one ended and continue. I like to start at the thinner end of the weaves. 
weaving pattern
Once the base of the trap has been woven a few times, I create a ring and attach it halfway down the verticals. This allows you to open the trap a little and give it the right shape.
creating a ring
add the ring
Keep weaving! 
continue weaving
Choose the desired total length. In this case, I chose a length of approximately 2.5 feet. 
This section is now approximately one and a half meters long.
Once the full length is reached, fold the frame pieces (chains) and lock them into the weavers. This will add some structural stability. 
bend the chains in the weavers
Once the first cone is complete, it's time to start working on the smaller cone. This small cone is placed inside the large cone. This creates a choke point and makes it very difficult for fish to find their way out. 
diagram of the two cones
The first step in building the small cone is to form two circles with flexible branches. These circles must be correctly sized. The larger of the two should be placed just inside the large cone. The smallest circle has a diameter of approximately 10 cm.
two circles for the second cone
The two circles pictured above are made in two different ways. The largest circle is a piece of maple vine twisted around itself. It's very easy to do and no stringing is necessary. The small circle is made from another piece of maple with acacia leaves, connected with willow bark. 
small circle tied with bark cord
Once the circles are complete, it's time to attach the verticals. I first attached them to the large circle with willow bark and raffia fibers. 
start of adding verticals (chains)
Remember to make the number of verticals odd (if you don't, the weave will not be correct). 
verticals finished on the smallest cone
For the weaves (wefts) of this smaller cone, I used many of the same plant species as mentioned above. I also used the roots of a red cedar tree. I walked to a creek and found a spot where the water had eroded the bank, exposing the roots. After harvesting them, I carefully split them in half and braided them into the cone. 
split cedar roots
braiding the smallest cone
finished cones
nesting of the small cone into the large cone
Once the little cone is finished, you're ready to try catching fish!
How to use the survival fish trap:
This trap works well as a baited trap in still waters. 
a calm pond to place the baited trap
You need to take any bait and place it inside the largest cone.
Some people tie the bait inside so that it hangs. They do this in case something is cunning enough to remove the bait from the outside.
If you place this trap in deep water, remember to attach a piece of rope long enough to be able to retrieve the trap.
small sunfish used as bait
This trap can also be used without bait. The baitless setup takes a little longer, but it works in streams and rivers.
The idea is to block off part of the stream and leave a small opening where the trap is placed. The hope is that fish moving down the stream will be funneled into the trap.
To increase your chances, you can walk back up along the bank, then enter the stream and swim down it, disturbing the water as you go. Often this pushes fish into the trap. 
unbaited fish trap placed in a stream
I placed this survival fish trap in a stream for a day and night, and tried to push a few fish downstream. I didn't catch any fish, but I did catch a few crawfish! 
crayfish caught in trap
The weaving techniques used to make this survival fish trap can be an easy way to make a container to catch your lunch. These techniques also make it possible to make a basket or even a fence.
Another consideration is the legal aspect of primitive traps. In many places, primitive trapping is only legal in real-life survival situations. It is always a good idea to check the regulations in force in your area. Regulations are often less strict when it comes to catching invasive fish species or fish stocked in ponds on private property.